Paumanok scores big at Wine Advocate

Mark Squires, a former Philadelphia attorney turned full-time wine obsessive, is taking his new assignment on Wine Advocate’s Long Island watch seriously.

Beginning in June, when he released some of the best reviews ever of local vintages, Squires has shown a clear thirst for Long Island wines, with a second round of reviews just released and more coming in December.

In all, 26 wines scored 90 or above, with Paumanok Vineyards the big winner with 10 of its 12 wines earning top scores.

Two of the 10, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Tuthills Lane Vineyard and the Merlot Grand Vintage from the same year, landed 93 points.

The cabernet, which Squires called gorgeous and graceful and “without a hair out of place,” goes for $75 at Paumanok’s tasting room.

“You could drink this today and it would still be amazing,” he noted, “but don’t. About five years in the cellar should help it a lot.”

Squires called the merlot “fresh and gripping” without being “bombastic.”

(Love that wine talk.)

In addition to Long Island, Squires covers most of the U.S. East Coast – he’s a big fan of Finger Lakes wines – as well as Greece, parts of the Middle East, Bulgaria, Romania and other former Soviet bloc regions.

The complete set of Long Island reviews are here.